Its surprising in many ways that sitting watching the world go by from the booth near the window at Bunters Grill can be such a real pleasure. For starters, there is the view - opposite and to the left, where Erskine Road meets the High Street, there is the Nationwide Building Society. To the right is the pink facade of Hundreds Sweet Shop. There is nothing particularly wrong with either shop, but they are not exactly beautiful.

Perhaps its the process of getting there which is so nice - the genuinely friendly welcome on entry helps a lot. The sight of other customers clearly enjoying being there. There is no music on, but behind the counter there are three cooks making happy sizzling sounds, which is pleasant to the ears. The tea comes, (65p for a large mug) without a tea bag floating in it, brewed long enough to have some strength and flavour, but short of being tannic. Exactly as I like it.

Unusually for what looks like a greasy spoon, I notice there is also a range of herbal teas on offer - green tea, mint and lemon, fennel, cinnamon and cloves and mixed fruit for 90p. The happy soul who greeted me on entry and brought my tea continues to greet every customer who enters, briskly serves teas and coffees and manages to half yodel Viva Espagna round the room 'do dooo do.. do doo do' without being remotely annoying. He has the air of a man who knows he is going to have a busy day and is looking forward to it.

There are several reasons why he should be busy. The cafe is clean, and offers senior citizens dinner including tea and afters at £3.20, and a gut-busting breakfast of Egg, Bacon, Sausage, Beans, Tomatoes and Mushrooms, Tea/Coffee, Toast or Bread for £4.80. Uniquely for Walthamstow they also serve Kippers and Tomatoes with Tea/Coffee, Toast or Bread for £4.25.

Lunchtime can kick off with homemade soup at a very reasonable £1.20, and can include choices such as fresh Sea Bass (as is only proper given the proximity to an excellent fishmongers)Fish, Chips and Peas for £3.80 or Omlettes which range from plain to Spanish (£3.70 - £4.70). Carnivores are catered for with Spaghetti Bolognaise, or roast meats such as Beef, Lamb and Chicken with Potatoes, Carrot and Peas. There are reduced portion meals available for children, and the bottles of Sarsons, HP Sauce and Heinz Ketchup testify to the range of options catering from those in the mood for a fry up or grill.

Perhaps its the tea, perhaps its the atmosphere. Maybe the pleasure of looking out onto the High Street past the fruit machine in the right hand corner, is enhanced by the orange chairs and pink formica tables. There is something that is attractive about Bunters. Who knows exactly what it is?