One of the most annoying things about living in Walthamstow for anyone who doesn't even pretend to be a cockney diamond geezer who done good (go to Chingford if you really want to see this type before its final extinction), is the fact that apart from the defunct Dog Track, William Morris (who he?), the Village (an estate agent's construct these days), the market and the Marshes, the only other thing most people know about Walthamstow is that there is a shop in the High street that still sells jellied eels and pie and mash.

This is it. Resplendent with its blue Waltham Forest Heritage plaque, this shop is thought of as a 'local institution'. As such, it can get away with opening only from 10.00am to 4.00pm on Mondays to Wednesdays and only deigning to stay open an extra whole hour till 5.00pm on Thursdays to Saturdays. They do not open on Sundays, or indeed, for breakfast or dinner, unlike the much more vibrant Walthamstove, Rio or Jesse's Cafes a few yards away.

As a result of its historic position, the owners of this shop are able to charge their customers £3.50 for a small pie and mash. This is for the privilege of sitting in a shop which was renovated with ratepayer's money - this shop, like the Cock and Cassino Shoes was grant assisted by the Walthamstow Town Centre Property Improvement Programme.

Visit it if you will. I have friends who have told me that I have to treat this place as if it had been built on Temple Mount. It's that important. They say the food is great. Personally, I find the tiled interior reminds me of the public toilets that there are now so few of in Walthamstow, and there are better culinary offers from people willing to work harder for my money just down the street. I'm not even sure how authentic all this is: there are other claimants in Sarf London to the Manze's crown which predate our shop, which opened in 1929. Beware of imitations,as they say.

A small pie and mash in their shop is apparently quite insubstantial, so Manze's offer to sell you enough to eat in the form of a double small pie and mash at £4.85, a large pie and mash for £3.65. or a double large pie and mash for £4.95. A Pukka pie from a local fish and chip shop is £1.50.

And then there are the eels. A small portion costs £3.50, a large costs £4. Double Eel and mash costs £8.00. And you must taste some 'liquor', and buy some chili vinegar to take home for two quid...